Mera Peak
and Island Peak Climbing With Amphu
Lapcha Trek.
Mera and
Island Peak Climbing with Amphu Lapcha Trek. This superb trek takes us away from the more frequented
trails leading to Everest Base Camp, to over a pass to
the east. Mera peak is considered one of the major and popular
trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the
south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically
straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of
crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides
the charm of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base
camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing
little-visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal with
densely forested hill sides. There are several
approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal
route which is mentioned below. The routes crossing
Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) and the Mingbo La (5,871m) provide
some the most adventurous trekking with spectacular
scenery through remote glaciated valleys and passes.
North Face Glacier from the Mera La.
The base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on
the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a
high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the
Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the most
glorious viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic
views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse
sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and
Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse
and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main
summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The
south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the
Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be
reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the
north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the
middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is
more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.
This course lead you to the Nepal?s most popular
climbing peaks Mera and Island. Mera is the highest
trekking peaks in Nepal considerably easy to ascend. We
will be walking through the dense forest of rhododendron
with standing Himalayan pine in first few days. The
summit of Mera peak gives you outstanding views of Mt.
Makalu, Mt. Baruntse and Mt. Everest. Mt. Lhotse. After
ascent on Mera the trip lead us to Amphu Lapcha La pass
considerably strenuous due to its remote location. Then,
after crossing the strenuous Amphu Lapcha La Pass we
will enter the Imja valley for another ascent of Island
Peak. Island Peak is known as easy climbing in Nepal?s
trekking peaks. The summit of Island peak provides the
beautiful marvelous vista of Mt. Everest. Mt. Lhotse,
Mt. Amadablam and many more.
Mera & Island Peak Climbing Itinerary
Day 1:
Arrive Kathmandu.
Airline arrival times in Kathmandu vary; most are in the
afternoon. You will be met and transferred to the
gorgeous Hotel in its beautiful setting on the edge of
Thamel district, where there are all styles of good
restaurants and shops with a profusion of Nepal?s
eastern handicrafts - many bargains.
Day 2: Kathmandu Sightseeing.
Kathmandu Hearty breakfasts are included at the hotel,
before our mid-morning briefing. All aspects of gear and
conditions are discussed to make sure you're fully
prepared for the trip, and any last minute questions
answered. After lunch we have the rest of the Day to
explore this medieval capital. Favourite destinations to
get oriented are the Durbar Square, the central cluster
of incredible temples to Nepal's myriad deities, and
Swayambunath, the hilltop Buddhist monkey temple, both a
short rickshaw ride from the hotel.
Day 3: fly Kathmandu - Lukla / trek to Phuiyan.
We take the morning flight to the dramatic airfield at
Lukla (2,860m) where we are immediately in amongst the
peaks. With most of the trekking groups heading up the
Dudh Khosi from here on the popular trail to Everest
base camp, our route to the south is a welcome escape
from this tourist bustle.
Day 4: Phuiyan - Pangkongma.
Not far from Phuiyan our trail breaks away again,
leaving the main route up from Kharikhola. We rise to a
spur pass, Khari La (2,990m). This used to be the main
path up from Jiri before the new one below was made, as
witnessed by the ruins of the old bhatti tea house. The
view north and west is fantastic all the way to Cho Oyu.
Shortly we come to a small lodge where we make lunch,
which seems suspended over the wide Kharikhola valley
below.
Day 5: Pangkongma - Narjing Dingma.
In the cool of the morning we head up toward the
Pangkongma La pass behind the village, and it is not
long before we arrive at its distinct notch (3,180m),
marked by some very ancient looking chortens. We have
entered the Hinku valley and immediately there is a feel
of unspoilt remoteness. Across the valley are thick
forests broken only by a few kharka pasture settlements.
Day 6: Narjing Dingma - Chalem Kharka.
The forests continue as we ascend, now mainly
rhododendron. From the Surkie La (3,085m) we head north
along the ridge, and the whole of eastern Nepal opens
out in front of us, over the wildly remote Hongu valley,
with the solitary bulk of the Kangchenjunga massive
marking the Sikkim border.
Day 7: Chalem Kharka - Khula Kharka.
From here up the ridge is cragged with lichen rocks and
heathers, and we wind our way up over several rises. The
ridge narrows as dramatic gullies drop away steeply on
either side. Over a final crest (4,330m) we reach the
unexpected suspended ledge of the lakes of Panch Pokhari
- five lakes, the sacred number. This is a place of
pilgrimage for both Buddhists, who line the edges of the
lakes with chortens, and Hindus, who leave a forest of
tridents, the symbol of Shiva the mountain-born god of
destruction and re-birth. This is a very potent,
evocative site.
Day 8: Khula Kharka - Khote.
Another excellent Day, first contouring the heathery
slopes, now firmly on the Hinku side of the ridge. Dwarf
juniper shrub turns gradually to trees again, before we
descend steeply to the phenomenal cascading junction of
two mountain torrents, crashing down through tall pine
forests all around our lunch site. These totally
unspoilt forests become even more majestic, as we soon
rejoin the main river, crossing it to continue up the
west bank and reach Khote (3,480m) where we will camp.
This site was particularly devastated by the flood of
'98 when the Sabai Tcho glacial lake broke its morraine
dam.
Day 9: Khote - Tagnak.
The forest gives way to open valley again by
mid-morning, revealing the peaks which line either side.
A small Buddhist gompa in the rock wall above the path,
contains some unexpectedly fine Buddha statues within.
The valley swings eastward into a new array of peaks and
the route up toward the Mera glacier comes into view. We
have reached the surprisingly well-established summer
settlement of Tagnak (4,140m) by lunch time, and here we
set up camp. Towering over our heads the sheer flank of
the Mera ridge dramatically dominates the skyline.
Day 10: Tagnak glacier acclimatisation Day.
This is a useful Day for boosting our adaption to the
altitude by gaining as much height as we can during the
Day but returning to Tagnak for the night. Opposite the
Mera ridge the Tagnak valley leads up to a long range of
peaks connecting Kusum Kanguru north to Kang Teiga. In
the morning we climb to the glacier level (about
5,000m), mostly a rocky scramble, with great views of
Mera behind. Returning for lunch, in the afternoon we
head up the slopes to the north to look at what is left
of the glacial lake, Sabai Tsho - not very much. You can
still see a distinct line, far above, marking where the
water had once reached.
Day 11: Tagnak - Khare.
This mornings walk up alongside the Dig glacier is easy
and relaxed. This is an excellent valley opening out
views to the north of the Hinku Nup glacier and the line
of peaks beyond. Behind us is the dramatic spire of the
less than romantically named 'Peak 35', which has yet to
be climbed. Only the last section up to our base camp at
Khare (4,940m) is steep and reminds us that we are
gaining altitude. Its a short climb and we are there in
good time for lunch. This will be our base for the next
3 nights, thoroughly developing our acclimatisation,
with successively higher Day ascents, descending to
sleep low and consolidate our energies for the final
ascent to come.
Day 12: Ridge ascent from Hinku Nup
ToDay we gain more valuable acclimatisation and pick up
some stunning views as well. Following the lateral
morraine of the Hinku Nup glacier into an arena of peaks
and glacial lakes, we turn to ascend a grassy ridge that
rises back to the south. At the top we eat our lunch and
are surrounded by an stunning panorama of peaks
including Mera itself and the whole of Hinku Himal to
the north, right round to the south face of Ama Dablam.
We take a packed lunch with us, but top up with hot
noodle soup back at base.
Day 13: Glacier training.
Everybody agrees this is a really great Day getting up
on top of the glacier for maximum acclimatization, as
well as the essential fun of learning the ropes on the
ice. There's no substitute for actually touching the
white stuff. We head up to the start of the Mera glacier
that we will later follow to the pass. Ascending the
steep edge of the glacier is ideal as our introduction
to crampon use and ice axe technique, and to get the
feel of jumaring on a fixed rope.
Day 14: Khare - Mera high camp.
We return to the glacier, and this time follow it round
in a wide arc, keeping close under the northern flank
where there are no crevasses. The last section is almost
level and Mera La (5,410m) itself is a rounded snow col
that bridges south to the main sweep of the Mera glacier
coming down from the peak itself.
Day 15: High Camp - Mera summit - Lake Camp.
It can seem a bit of a shock to the system to be
awakened before dawn (even by smiling Sherpas bearing
steaming hot tea), with the prospect of leaving our warm
sleeping bags and getting ready for the cold outside -
always the toughest moment of any mountaineering trip.
But we soon warm up, continuing up the main glacier then
crossing back to the south side as we approach the snow
hump-back ridge.
Day 16: (contingency Day) Kongma Dingma.
There is no such thing as a guarantee of good climbing
conditions in the Himalayas, so an extra Day to maximize
our odds is built into this itinerary. The Day stages
described here are for if we don't need it - if we do
then we simply lose the extra night in Chukhung. We
start the decent into the Hongu with a short Day
downhill, all the more exciting for the feeling of
anticipation of heading into such remote and seldom
visited territory. Straight ahead now the views of
Chamlang dominate the valley.
Day 17: Kongma Dingma - Hongu valley camp.
ToDay we head up into the upper yak pastures of this
incredible remote valley. All morning the great flanks
of Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of
Baruntse comes into view beyond. The terrain is
remarkably benign, especially considering we are
actually heading directly into the very epicentre of the
highest group of mountains in the world. The valley
floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising
to the cul-de-sac of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock
to realise that the two majestic mountains we are
heading straight towards are none other than Everest and
Lhotse.
Day 18: Hongu Valley - Panch Pokhari camp.
Gradually the vegetation thins out as we reach the lake
at the foot of the terminal morraine of the Hongu
glacier, and we start to ascend into the rocky landscape
at the base of the pass ahead. On a shelf above the
valley floor we come to the first of the Panch Pokhari,
the 'five lakes'. Five is the sacred number for lakes in
the Himalaya.
Day 19: Amphu Labtsa - Chukhung.
We make an early start to avoid the danger of ice-melt
rockfall that can occur later in the Day. The ascent to
the pass involves plenty of scrambling and several fixed
ropes, for climbers and porters alike. The upper pitches
are hard work over loose rock and icy sections. But the
pass itself is well worth it. The Amphu Labtsa (5,780m)
is spectacular, a knife sharp ridge, cut by the pass it
at a dramatic diagonal before descending equally steeply
on the other side. The view opens out before us of the
vast south face of Lhotse and, almost unnoticeable to
start with, our own Island Peak in the foreground. The
north side of the pass can be very icy, and it takes
care, some fixed rope and some abseil (we're now well
practiced), for the initial descent.
Day 20: Chukhung Rest Day.
Chukhung is a great place for doing absolutely nothing,
which is precisely what we have scheduled for toDay. A
bit of washing, plenty of eating and admiring the view
of Island peak will do nicely, thank you. If you really
can't do that, there's always the very excellent
Chukhung Ri viewpoint just outside the back door.
Day 21: Chukhung - Island High Camp.
Its actually a short, easy enough Day toDay, continuing
up the Imja valley in direct approach to the pyramid
south-west face of Island Peak itself. At first sight it
had been fairly dwarfed by the massive south flank of
Lhotse, but put in the perspective that the Lhotse face
is the largest in the world, almost unclimable, our
Island Peak starts to assume its own stature as a
serious challenge. Passing through the narrow gap
between the Lhotse and Imja glaciers we approach close
to the foot of the south-west ridge, drawing alongside
the rocky south flank.
Day 22: Island summit - Base camp or Chukhung
We get up to steaming cups of tea at about 4.00am,
kit-up and eat a good breakfast - plenty of porridge.
Setting off by head-torch we cut across the gully to the
rocky slopes above. Though we can still pick out a good
trail there are some steep scrambled sections which need
care in the dark. The rock approach continues through
the small hours, but finally the light starts to
illuminate the peaks around us. The the stunning form of
Ama Dablam appears above the ridge, with its incredible
sheer north-west face. We come out on top of a prominent
spur at the top of the ridge, and no longer need the
torches. Ahead a narrow ice arete steps out onto the
glacier, and we put on our crampons.
Day 23: (contingency Day) Chukhung or Dingboche
This scheduled contingency Day maximises our chances in
the event of a bad weather Day. If we don't need it we
can carry on or rest up, probably in Dingboche, which is
only an hour down from Chukhung.
Day 24: Dingboche or Chukhung - Deboche
Our return route gets to see another side of Khumbu,
including the famous Thyangboche monastery. We stroll
down into beautiful mossy forests to have lunch at
Pangboche (3,900m). Crossing the river by a dramatic
bridged gorge, it's an easy afternoon to our garden
lodge stop at Deboche (3,760m). Thyangboche monastery is
only 20 minutes further, and those with spare energy may
like to nip up for a preview visit.
Day 25: Deboche - Namche Bazaar.
A few minutes brings us to Thyangboche, the most
important gompa in the Sherpa region. It is an
incredible site and there is plenty of time for a
leisurely visit to the monastery. Then we descend to
cross the river again, having lunch just up at Trashinga.
We climb to Sanasa, from where it is wide level path all
the way back to the lodge at Namche.
Day 26: Namche Bazaar - Lukla.
The steep descent from Namche changes the landscape
dramatically, bringing us to the beautiful Dudh Kosi
valley, lush and green with many villages and Buddhist
shrines. We follow the river to Phakding for lunch and
continue in the afternoon to Lukla. We have come full
circle, an incredible round trip. This is our last night
on trek, inevitably time for a bit of a Sherpa style
party.
Day 27: fly Lukla - Kathmandu.
We catch the spectacular flight past the mountains back
to Kathmandu. We are met and brought back to a warm
welcome and the comforts of the Hotel.
Day 28: Free day in kathmandu.
At leisure in Kathmandu Time yet for more sights,
shopping and shenanigans in the relaxed bars of Thamel.
Day 29: Final Departure.
Depart Kathmandu Some airlines depart in the morning,
some in the afternoon; your transport will be arranged
to suit.
Note: The above information is a guide and standard
template of what we provide. The trek can be customized
at your request to accommodate your specific
requirements.
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