In the Khumbu Himal, running just north of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge.

Over the years, on continents far and wide, we have searched for "perfect" peaks to guide. Our criteria have been pretty limiting, and climb after climb, summit after summit, though we have enjoyed them all, usually there is some serious downside to any particular route. In the Khumbu, which we have visited often, we think that Kyajo Ri comes closest to our ideal.

Here's why we like it:

• It is a beautiful mountain, with a sharp defined summit, and is the highest peak in its immediate vicinity.

•  At almost 6200 meters, it is high, but not too high. Higher peaks take more time for acclimatization and lower peaks are simply dwarfed by the giants all around.

•  The route actually ends on the highest magnificent pointed summit, unlike Lobuche East, or Island Peak (at least as they are commonly climbed, stopping on lower fore-summits, shy of the penultimate point). Situated in the middle of the Khumbu, it is surrounded by impressive summits and has fantastic views, including lots of 8000 meters. It is not crowded, at least not yet!

• It is technical without being extreme.

• The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition.

• It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard.

• The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.

• It has a beautiful, comfortable and quiet base camp, located in a wonderful isolated valley.

• It is classified as a "Trekking Peak" which permits a less expensive, less complicated expedition.
  
  History
  
  The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machhermo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 An American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.
  
  There may have been other attempts or even ascents of the peak prior to its official opening in 2002. At the location of our high camp (which is not the location of any camps from the above expeditions) we found a few old cans and rock tent site enclosures. So someone had been there before us.

 Kyajo Ri  Peak Climbing Itinerary.

Day 01: Fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding
Day 02: Trek to Namche
Day 03: Rest at Namche for acclimatization
Day 04: Trek to Kisa
Day 05: Trek to Kyajo Kharka
Day 06: Trek to Kyajo Ri base camp
Day 07 – 14: Climbing
Day 15: Retrace to Kisa
Day 16: Trek to Namche
Day 17: Trek to Lukla
Day 18: Fly back to Kathmandu.
Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 20: Airport transfer for international flight.

Full camping trek arrangement ( guide, cook, kitchen boy, porters, all meals, cooking and camping equipment ).
Peak permit fee.
Climbing guide and his equipment allowance
High altitude tent, ropes, snow bars, gas (high fuel) & high food.
Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu airfare .
Staff insurance.
National Park entrance fee.
Airport arrival and departure

The cost does not include the expenses of personal nature, personal climbing gear, rescue by helicopter and accident insurance.